Thursday, 23 July 2009

New Blog!!!

Hey guys!!!

Check out my new blog I just started!!!

This blog is my official blog and the official blog of "The Board" i.e. my board at my house where I train when i'm not at Ratho...

Wednesday, 22 July 2009

New Training Programme!!!

Hey Everyone...

Just thought i would show you guys if your interested, my new training programme. I've been following it for the past few weeks now and its going well. I am in love with the Beastmaker fingerboard (

This fingerboard is the epitemy of training utilities. I would say that even without a board, using this training tool would make you into a real beast. Now remember everyone, fingerboards are an amzing training tool but they are also very dangerous for those unexperienced with them (actually, they are more dangerous for people who are experienced with them). The idea of a fingerboard is to develop finger and tendon strength by performing various exercises hanging on your fingertips.

My favourite exercise at the moment are called Repeaters. I learned these from ned Feehally and Dan Varians website ( and Eric Horst (world famous climbing coach) site (

Repeaters involve doing 7 repetitions of 7 second hangs on a hold, where in between each individual hang you rest for between 2 and 5 seconds. I rest for 2 out of prefernce as I want as little rest as possible, but the rest is essential as it allows blood to flow back into your forearms to create a more realistic sense of climbing movement. One set for me would be:

1)Hang 7 secs
2)rest 2 secs
3)Hang 7 secs
4)Rest 2 secs
5)Hang 7 secs
6)Rest 2 secs
7)Hang 7 secs
8)Rest 2 secs
9)Hang 7 secs
10)Rest 2 secs
11)Hang 7 secs
12)Rest 2 secs
13)Hang 7 secs
14)Rest 2 minutes
15) Next set

This set although not seeming very much actually leaves you with a really good feeling of a power-endurance based forearm pump, similar to what you would feel doing a long sustained boulder problem or short sustained route.

This is a very basic representation of my weekly training schedule:

Monday (Power-Endurance)
Tuesday (BM)
Wednesday (Power)
Thursday (Stamina)
Friday (Rest)
Saturday (Power-Endurance)
Sunday (BM)

Power Endurance

• 3 x sets of Circuits (3 x reps per circuit)
• Beastmaker (Max Strength Hangs + One Arm Pull Ups)


• 1 x hour of Bouldering (Maximum Intensity)
• Beastmaker (Repeaters + One Arm Pull Ups)


• 3 x sets of Laps (3 x routes per set) (1 x set can be swapped for 2 or 3 x max on-sights or red-points)
• Beastmaker (Max Strength Hangs + One Arm Pull Ups)

Beastmaker (Maximum Strength Hangs)

• 5 x 45° Slopers
• 5 x 2 Fngr Dish (Mid 2)
• 5 x Shallow Pocket (Front 2)
• 5 x Mono (Mid 1)

Beastmaker (Repeaters)

• Mini-rungs/F3 (2 sets)
• Mini-rungs/B3 (2 sets)
• Mini-rungs/½ Crimp (2 sets)

• Shallow Pockets/M2 (2 sets)
• Deep Pockets/F2 (2 sets)
• Very Deep Pockets/B2 (2 sets)

Beastmaker (One Arm Pull Ups)

• Middle Large-rung (2 sets)(-4kg)
• Middle Large-rung (1 set)(-2kg)
• Middle Large-rung (1 set)

If you have any questions regarding this training, you can contact me on:

I will be posting up more training article soon enough, next issue will be on Power-endurance training on a bouldering wall (circuits and problem reps)


Tuesday, 14 July 2009


Crazy Jungle Tufa Madness!!!

No-hands rests are very common on steep spanish limestone sport routes (Rodellar is famous for them, be sure to work on that core strength...)

Tufa technique is very tricky, especially if your used to pulling on plastic at the gym. In my opinion, its a little like crack climbing... it requires the same awkward and diverse techniques yet its geological structure is the complete opposite???
The best part of climbing trips... Meeting new friends...